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Tieback Anchor For Retaining Walls
The Tieback Anchor uses our Augers and our unique Eye Nut Coupling Kit which includes:
- (2) Steel Plates
- (2) ½" x 2" Bolts, Nuts, Lock Washers
- (3) Eye Nuts (M16, coarse), M16 Lock Washers
- (1) 5" x 5" Cap Plate
The coupling kit makes a robust, durable straight load path for the anchor and is made of heavy duty components.
Just select your choice of auger length and blade diameter.
Then buy threaded rod locally in the lengths you need. Just make sure it is an M16 2.0 coarse pitch thread to match the Eye Nuts.
The Cap Plate (Flat) has a 17mm hole which can be enlarged on site if needed by using a drill bit depending on the angle that your threaded rod is at.
If you are building a retaining wall, and are looking for a great Tieback Anchor system, this will work well provided your soil can accept a helical auger.
In softer clay soil a larger 5" blade will be optimal for maximum loads. In denser, sandy or granular soils a 5" blade may be harder to use so consider a 3-¼" blade.
Tieback Anchor Instructions
The Tieback Anchor is simple to install. Just drive our auger into the ground and couple it to an M16 threaded rod. Create a perfect line of tension with ease!
Click the button below to view our guide, or if you'd prefer, scan the QR code included in the instructions to watch a video guide.
How A Helical Tieback Anchor For A Retaining Wall Works
For those of you not familiar with retaining wall construction, here is a quick summary.
A Tieback Anchor functions most efficiently by resisting opposing tension forces - in a straight line.
If you are looking for a tieback anchor for a retaining wall, we suggest you use our system which uses a very durable Eye Nut and Coupling Plate system. It makes it easier to create a straight connection between the two joined parts.
Once assembled, you create a linear load pathway that is anchored in the ground by the blade, joined to each other by coupling the Eye Nuts in a common horizontal plane and then tied to the retaining wall by a Cap Plate and Nut.
Ideally the assembled auger and rod should make a straight line to duplicate the path of the tension force as shown in this illustration.
Sometimes it is not possible to make a straight line. Staying within a maximum variance of 10° off of 180° will keep the moment load on the auger at a safe value. The more you increase the angle the weaker the system becomes because the forces may begin to pull the auger through the soil. You must consider a way to counteract that force. But nothing is as efficient as a straight load path.
Consider The Type Of Soil You Are Working With
The density of soil determines how easily you can drive a helical anchor into the ground and also how much tension or compression load the bade can hold.
As a general rule, a smaller 3-¼" blade will drive easier into dense soil and denser soil will also increase tension or compression loads. Alternatively, a larger 5" blade will be easy enough to drive into a clay soil and the larger surface area of the blade will compensate a bit for the softer soil and give you good tension and compression loads.
Vertical "pull out" tests in sandy soil in Colorado (see our Engineering Reports) showed a 36" deep auger with the 3-¼" diameter blade resisting a maximum of 4000 lbs versus 1,244 lbs in clay.
If you are going into a softer clay, you should consider using our auger with a 5" diameter blade. The 5" blade has been tested by our engineering team in a clay soil and sustained loads of 5,500#.
So for safety, take 75% of those values for your design calculations you should be able to determine with some degree of confidence what your resistance in the wall is going to be.
We would highly recommend that you take our Engineering Report and discuss them with a structural engineer to fully understand and appreciate them so you use the product in the correct way for the correct application.
This is particularly important if you are building anything substantial.
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